we headed south from memphis toward New Orleans, and we decided to take highway 61 and route 1, just to get off the interstate for a while. we drove thru mile after mile of mississippi: farms and fried chicken grease markets. andrew had tips on some juke joints in greenville, near where we planned to crash for the night. but those places had no jukin goin on. we asked where to find some live music, and got routed back to the white side of town where there was a strip with about 3 bars and some sidewalk plaques honoring blues greats from mississippi.
we picked a bar and ordered some beers and chicken wings.
i mentioned to andrew that i hadn’t seen so many dixie flags since the black confederate soldiers handed them out at juneteenth several years ago. andrew told me the guy next to him on the other side had JUST said the same thing.
the skinny old drunk guy saunters over to our table and *playfully* takes a chicken wing bone off my plate. and puts it in his MOUTH. then he prances back to the dance floor. i was pretty shocked. i was still blinking my eyes trying to understand what had just happened when the guy lumbers back, kind of leans over me and spits the chicken bone out onto MY PLATE! the owner pounced on him within seconds and threw him out. he also comped my food, and brought me a free beer and a jello shot to smoothe things over. the good (?) news is, no one else in the place had seen anything like that either. a few onlookers expressed their gratitude that andrew did not deck the guy and turn the place into a brawling barroom. he’s a lover not a fighter.
we left greenville taking route 1 south to Leroy Percy State Park, which boasted RV camping, SHOWERS, disc golf, and “artesian wells”. i think we saw the “wells” but they just looked like a high-pressure pipe pouring water on the riverbank. we definitely saw an alligator. and signs warning you not to eat the fish cuz they’re all polluted with pesticides. mmmmmm!
we rolled on outa miss-sippi the next morning, and took the scenic route (hwy 61) all the way to lousiana. next stop: new orleans!