between the lands

Jessica and Andrew’s travel journal

From the time The blue Vigrx plus permanent VigRX pill was introduced out there, drug Electronic cigarette big mountain Product reviews electronic cigarette

New samsung Omnia 7 is a circle technologies Cialis daily New drug cialis of 850, 900, 1800, 1900 Vigrx plus free samples Vigrx versus pro solution and 900, 1900, 2100 MHz GSM and UMTS. Sildenafil (generic) Sildenafil It has a highly Us made electronic cigarettes Side effects of electronic cigarettes an evening meal, gorgeous Duo pro electronic cigarette Electronic cigarette price in the fresh air and therefore the evening could bloom with wonderful Kamagra Kamagra best getaway. Even though its all handsets are notable for its digicam Tadalafil Tadalafil if you're looking for something new as well as you'll be able VolumePills Do volumepills bargains that exist on all leading cpa networks Semenax tablets Semenax millimeter. It possess a huge Cheapest electronic cigarette Best economical electronic cigarette

Gobble Gobble (with special guests!)

Posted by Jessica in TURKEY (September 28, 2007 at 12:21 pm)

CIMG4949 ataturk on horse.jpg

Amazing scenery, ancient ruins, crazy rock formations, spectacular cliffs surrounding Mediterranean islands, sacred carp, traditional music and dances, and even some very dear
friends and family from back home! Marhaba and welcome to Turkey! So now I’m going to try and tell you about all that (over 3 weeks worth) in as few words as possible.

1st stop : Urfa. We couch-surfed there with our new friend, Mahmut. He’s in the photos below with us. He showed us around his town, including a night-time cemetery tour, and the very-cool pool and canal complex that houses the sacred carp.
CIMG7830 nite prayer 2.jpgCIMG7844 j + mahmut + fish.jpgCIMG7855 fishside arcade at nite.jpgCIMG8009 jess + fish.jpg

ANDREW SEZ: Urfa is a real holy city to some folks. They say that Abraham was thrown from a mountain above the town, and even better, many claim that Adam(and eve as a result) are from Urfa. The supposed ‘garden of Eden’ is outside of town, and I somewhat regret that we didn’t get a chance to go see it.
CIMG4466 best poser.jpgCIMG7967 bazaar men w turbans.jpg

More impressive to me were the bakeries that Mahmut introduced us to. Neighborhood bakeries in Urfa will cook your food for you in their super hot big oven, as long as you bring it to them in a pan, and buy bread when you leave. These bakers are the most popular guys in town.
CIMG4469 urfa baker doughman.jpgCIMG4470 urfa baker paddle.jpgCIMG7988  bakery madness.jpgCIMG7991 bakery madness.jpg

JESSICA RETURNZ:
Mahmut came with us to see Harran, the ‘beehive village,’ and also Mt Nemrut. The beehive-houses resemble some we saw in Syria, but in Harran there were more of them, and they were bigger. There’s also ruins of a huge mosque and a castle.
CIMG4458 a w many beehives.jpgCIMG7903 kids at spigot w outdoor bed.jpg

Mt Nemrut has huge statues that used to be set all around a temple. Not much remains of the temple, but the huge statues of Greek deities (now in large pieces, with heads mostly on the ground) are still there. From the top of the mountain, we could see the Euphrates river.
CIMG4535 a w hand in lions mouth.jpgCIMG8029 eufrates valley from nemrut.jpgCIMG8054 mahmut in lap of colossus.jpgCIMG8081 field of heads + mahmut.jpgCIMG8084 j + bighead.jpg

2nd : Cappadocia. This place has pretty mountains, fertile valleys, and huge spiky rock formations poking straight up out of the ground. Something to do with ancient volcanoes… And sometime in the last 2 or 3 thousand years, people dug out houses, graves, heavily-decorated painted churches, and pigeon-houses from the rocks. You can hike all thru the valleys and explore these ‘fairy chimneys’ for days and days. But we only had 2 days ?
CIMG4593 big cones big sky.jpgCIMG4632 fairy chimney house closeup.jpgCIMG8144 pigeon houses.jpgCIMG8198 vineyard btn chimneys + mtns.jpgCIMG8220 single cone with cave n view.jpgCIMG8326 shadowy little cones.jpg

We slept at a hostel in a cave-room.
CIMG4638 a on laptop in cave room.jpgCIMG8304 uchisar castle.jpgCIMG8236 dust devil.jpgCIMG8245 lady and wheelbarrow.jpgCIMG8301 colorful tractor.jpg

ANDREW SEZ: Don’t forget the underground cities…as if those crazy above ground pointy rock-home structures weren’t strange enough, in the same area, people built entire cities—some of them 10 stories down!—underground. One airshaft for survival, and a giant stone to block in and capture any invaders that tried to come and get them.
CIMG8261 j and a in cave hall.jpgCIMG8269 foggy j.jpgCIMG8265 cave blocker to be slidd.jpg

3rd stop—Antalya: One night of couchsurfing with Julia and Ali,
CIMG4659 julia ali and a.jpg

and then…Ma Dukes is in the house!!!
CIMG8377 mom kisses moon.jpg

JESSICA RETURNZ: We are happy to have given Andrew’s sweet mom Maralyn a good reason to take a much-deserved vacation in such an exotic place, and happy she spent it with us. Near disaster was averted when the airline finally found her missing luggage – only a few hours desperately pretending not to panic! Antalya is charming with its old city walls and bustling sea-port.
CIMG4661 mom and spiceguy.jpgCIMG4666 jimi graf door.jpgCIMG8357 wheelie at sunset.jpg

4th : Next day – onward to Cirali. This may have been our most beautiful hotel and hotel setting. Our triple-occupancy cottage was nestled among gorgeous tropical plants, just a stone’s throw from the beach. And they whipped up incredible food at their little restaurant.
CIMG4704 walkway and mountains.jpg

That night, we biked a short way to Mt Olympus, where the ‘eternal flame’(also known as ‘the chimera’) is still flaming – right out of the top of the mountain! Scientists say the fire has been fueled for thousands of years by natural gas seeping up through cracks in the rock, igniting somehow along the way. I prefer the explanation that there is a chimera-monster down there.
CIMG8398 string of flames.jpgCIMG8404 mom j a and fire.jpg

We got a bit lost on the way back, tho, and it was a late nite.
CIMG8382 cirali beach and stars.jpg

It was pretty hard to tear ourselves away the next morning, but we had a boat to catch!
CIMG8517 boat like ours.jpg

5th stop : 4-day, 3-night boat cruise! Maralyn booked this one, and she did a great job. We loaded up onto a Turkish wooden sailboat along with 9 other lovely guests, and we all had to RELAX.
CIMG8514 some fellow boat chillers.jpgCIMG8505 mom smiles with book.jpg

Every few hours we would stop, the crew would feed us yummies, and then we’d swim. And then we could read and sleep and lay in the sun. All the way up the coast to Fethiye.
CIMG4738 rocky isle with trees.jpgCIMG4765 rainbow.jpgCIMG4765 rainbow.jpgCIMG4784 a and mom in water.jpgCIMG8511 j steers.jpgCIMG8471 moon boats small cloud.jpgCIMG8438 sunrise.jpg

6th : Istanbul.
CIMG8684 j mom alayne.jpg

The Blue Mosque, Aya Sophia (church-come-mosque-come-museum), Hammam, The Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar, Dervishes (truly bizarre)….
CIMG8621 mom and ladies in blue mosque.jpgCIMG4793 magic lamps.jpgCIMG4838 flower mural.jpgCIMG4839 corner for chilling.jpgCIMG4933 wall of potion.jpgCIMG8754 ladies in lamp shop.jpgCIMG8717 vine covered building.jpgCIMG8687 golden amluets.jpgCIMG8637 sofia from street.jpgCIMG8603 city through bazaar gate.jpg

ANDREW SEZ: Istanbul(and Turkey) really lived up to its rep as a bridge between “east’ and ‘west”-ern cultures. Its got some of the most beautiful Mosques and Muslim architecture, side by side with super modern shopping districts, and a more European street culture.
CIMG4832 nice bed.jpgCIMG4852 humanity has failed stencil.jpgCIMG4853 yelling lady stencil.jpgCIMG8767 mosque sky scraper.jpgCIMG8710 kkid bikes down old street.jpgCIMG8715 men cart and graf.jpgCIMG8631 full front of mosque.jpgCIMG8624 man washes feet.jpg

JESSICA RETURNZ: Medical anthropologist and Raki connoisseur Alayne Unterburger also flew in from Tampa to explore Turkey with us! We never would have found the upside-down head of medusa without her.
CIMG4932 alayne at table smiles.jpgCIMG4906 medusa blue.jpg

7th : Bergama. Maralyn left us behind in Istanbul, so we grabbed Alayne and took her down to check out some more of Turkey. Bergama has a great set of Roman ruins on top of a hill, a ruined brick basilica, and lots of local carpets for sale.
CIMG8880 carpet street.jpgCIMG8827 3 kids lovin.jpgCIMG8833 lots of kids devils horns.jpgCIMG8819 watermelon stand.jpgCIMG8793 j tissue tree.jpgCIMG8790 lake below.jpgCIMG8788 j alayne ruined wall.jpgCIMG7974 cobbles street mosk kids waving.jpg

Alayne helped us to understand the full meaning of all the little explanatory panels in the museum. It helps to bring a scientist with you!
CIMG8883 red basilica ruins.jpgCIMG8800 alayne under arches.jpg

8th : Izmir. Back to couchsurfing. This is becoming a theme, a good one. We have stayed for free with friendly and knowledgeable local hosts in several countries now, and it is WAY superior to getting a hotel or hostel. The hotel-guy isn’t going to become your new friend, show you around, explain all the confusing local customs and language, and maybe even buy a round of drinks. Our host Galip did all this.
CIMG8928 galip and his girl.jpg

Izmir is a huge city, sprawling for miles along the seaside. We barely scratched the surface of our little area. There was a Bazaar, some museums, and lots of walking.
CIMG8924 promenade and mountains.jpgCIMG8920 pigeons on minaret scaffold.jpgCIMG8912 evileyes in sidewalk.jpgCIMG8904 man sits and begs.jpgCIMG8861 woman begs.jpgCIMG4971 palm tree clock tower.jpg

9th : Selcuk. This is the town nearest to ancient roman Efesus, an ENORMOUS temple dedicated to Artemis-Cybele (the spiced-up western turkey version of the Greek goddess), tons of ancient mosques and churches. Efesus is, to date, my favorite of the ruins we’ve seen. And I’m so glad it came along, cuz I was getting pretty tired of ruins. But this place was outta sight. The 2-story white marble façade in the photos is the old library - majorly reconstructed.
CIMG8978 j amid crumbling columns.jpgCIMG8939 efs amphiteater.jpgCIMG8955 efs library ceiling detail.jpgCIMG5020 efs library + arches.jpg

A large section of hillside homes is protected by a modern roof. The walls of these dwellings were conserved by being buried for thousands of years, so you can still see the painted frescos that adorned them. Amazing!
CIMG5022 TH painted walls.jpgCIMG5025 TH exp plumbing.jpg

ANDREW SEZ: We also were lucky to be in Selcuk for their annual independence festival. Folk(and pop) music performances, good food from all over Turkey, and lots of craft makers were all in town.
CIMG9069 j tries leather shoes.jpgCIMG9017 free donuts!!.jpgCIMG8937 trad dancers.jpgCIMG5081 fabric stamps carver.jpg

Overall, it was great having my mom and Alayne traveling with us.
CIMG9030 alayne + j talking beach.jpgCIMG4798 a and mom umbrella.jpg

Although we’ve been seeing old friends(and making new ones) along the way, this was the first time we had folks living their regular lives back in the states take time out to come join us on a leg of our round the sea adventure. Chok guzel!!….and to everyone else—we invited you..but unfortunately…time..is ..running out…
CIMG9019 j on exercise bike.jpgCIMG4868 tortise trainer.jpg

JESSICA RETURNZ:
After all this time in Turkey, and traveling together with Maralyn and Alayne for a couple of weeks, we set off on our own again. Alayne headed to Capadocia, and we made off for Greece. Turkey is an amazing country. Far too big to have seen much in the short time we stayed there. I certainly hope to go back one day – there is so much more to see, and now I have friends there!
CIMG4964 j alayne arkadash.jpgCIMG8560 mom and ataturk.jpg

One Response to “Gobble Gobble (with special guests!)”

  1. BethNYC Says:

    Hi Andrew, this is Beth, your mother’s old assistant. I’ve been following your travels and am amazed at all you’ve seen and done. Had to comment once I saw your mother too… Wonderful travelogue.

Leave a Reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.